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48v LifePO4 MasterBoard

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All right time to talk about batteries, i haven't made a video showing you how to put one of these kits together and today, i'm gon na. Finally, do it all right, of course we are talking about the 48 volt lithium-ion phosphate 4s right. Actually, this is going to be a 16s kit right and allows you to use 16 of these boards times 4.. What is that 64 cells right? So it allows you to use whatever 26 650s uh lithium-ion phosphate batteries that you want, and, of course these are just as easy to populate as this right.

You connect the positive to positive and negative to negative and they just go on like if you were loading batteries on a remote control right there we go and then there's the master board right. These are all 4s 12-volt modules right and you can stack them on top of each other with standoffs, and i made videos about that and then you that'll be a 12-volt battery right. But if you want other uh voltages, then you got ta tie them together. In a series, parallel parallel series, parallel series, uh configuration right, and you could do all that yourself right with wires and cables and connectors and stuff - or you can just get one of these uh boards master boards, which i've already done right.

So if you look into here, this is already doing all of that. It's connecting all of these in series. Parallel connections - uh, it's taking all the uh. Well, what are these? The the the sense leads right to this bms, which is a 16 s.

48 volt uh bms and then it's fusing it and it's fusing all of these ones in here. So it's uh, redundantly fused and then it's got legs right so that you can mount this inside of a box. If you want it right, and these are um. These are metal feet that i put in there right.

They have threads and four threads on the bottom, but they are isolated, they're not connected to anything on the top, and so it's safe for you to put this down even on metallic surfaces right and so that's why we did that and it's much much stronger. The old way of putting these little feet with these guys uh it was it - was causing too much trouble right. Those these break easily uh and we were using these to isolate the bottom of the feet here and show you here right. So we would do that and then that would be the bottom of the thing and i would keep it isolated, but those break these batteries wait uh quite a bit, and so then that's what happened.

So i'm going to show you how to put this together. Eventually, newer uh, later versions of this uh board was going to have some text in here with instructions and then the 48 volt and you know making it easier. But since these early versions of these boards uh first batches or whatever, then they don't have anything here. So that's what this video is about to help you put this together.

So this board goes on the bottom as opposed to the 12-volt version of this. That goes on the top. That's a topper! This is a bottom, so you will have to load it up a bit different. Okay, first things: first you're gon na have to load up the first row of studs in here and they're gon na be different.

The regular size studs are gon na go here and the reason is because well, you got ta make room to put the second board, and this is kind of in the way right. So you're gon na need this big one. These are 30 millimeter long standoffs. Okay, now the rest of them you're gon na use these little tiny standoffs all right.

You see that now these three stacks have the little ones and then the one with the bms has a 30 millimeter tall. Now we can start loading the boards again, all right. So before you do that, you obviously have to make sure that all these boards are the same voltage right, make sure they're all at the same voltage whatever voltage. It is if they're out towards the bottom, if they're in the middle or they're towards the top, they should all be the same voltage, and then you start loading them.

They have each four of these. Stacks has to have an equal amount of boards, because these are connected in series right, so positive and negative. So there you go then from the second step, they're all going to be the same 30 millimeter standoffs. Okay, let's talk about this battery now.

Look. The bms here is rated at 50 amps and the the traces on this board and the cables here are rated at 50 amps right, but each one of these boards can push 5 amps so 5. 10. 15.

20.. That means these four can push a total of 20 amps before these fuses start blowing uh, because these are connected in series with these other four sets of uh of boards. Then this battery right now can do 20 amps before these fuses start blowing right. So that means you have some room, you can add another four and then you'll be 240 amps and then you can add another two right and then you'll be around 50 right.

So that's the limiting factor right here. If you add uh six boards. On top of this ones here and then six here six here six here, they all have to be match groups right because they're connected in series uh, then you will be around the max output that this battery can do the 50 amps. But of course you can keep adding you can just keep adding more and more boards.

You can make this into a huge battery and then the limiting factor is just going to be the the bms here at 50, past 50 amps. This bms is going to shut down because it's rated at 50 amps and it can't handle that and that's a good thing, this board right here i mean this fuses right here - will also blow at about 40 amps right and that's just to to protect the the You know the board uh and the traces here so that they don't you know, melt and catch fire and all this other stuff right. So that's what you can do, but if you build a huge battery and your load just never goes above 40 or 50 right, then you're, fine, you're, fine, you'll be able to have a battery that lasts a very long time. So this is really great for storage.

Uh uh applications right that need 48 and, of course, this 48 volt right here is compatible with all kinds of equipment. Anything you know there are tons of inverters and there are tons of equipment that you will be able to use with this battery. So there you go, this is how you put together the 48 volt kit that uses 16 of the 4s boards and the master board right. This is just starting kit.

You can then start keep adding and do more. You can build another more of these and then connect them in parallel if you want to build your battery that way. So this is a super easy way to build a battery a diy battery using the 26650 lithium iron phosphate battery, which is very, very common. You can get them.

We have some battery in our website right now that we're selling, that is around ninety two dollars or ninety four dollars a kilowatt hour right, so super super cheap you'll have to harvest it from other packs, right that have a bad bms in them and then test Them and then once you're done testing, and then you can put them in here and build such a system out of these right. So there you go. I hope you enjoyed this video. Thank you for watching we'll see you guys on the next one: bye hey! What's up you.

8 thoughts on “48v lifepo4”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars MrLandphill says:

    I am trying to "build a better battery" for my 24v Neuton CE 5.3 battery lawnmower. it currently uses 2 12v 10ah lead acid batteries, the charger has no brains, it just dumps 24v 1000 ma to the batteries. the motor specs are
    RPM 4300
    Tip Speed 16,000 ft./min.
    AMP Idle 4 – 5

    AMP Cutting 8 – 10
    Size 500W, 24V DC/32 Amp
    Noise Under 80 Decibels

    The battery pack is made up with the 2 12v 10ah batteries oriented side by side. do you think a couple of your battery stacks would fit side by side in the space of 2 12v 10ah batts?
    Dimension(LxWxH) 151mm (5.91") x 98mm (3.86") x 95mm (3.74") each? thanks Phill

    also should the current charger work?

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mountainman says:

    I'm a bit confused. You said the fuses on the boards will blow above 20 amps. But you also said you can add more boards and go up to the 50 amps that the rest of the board was built for. How can you run say, 40 amps from the pack and not still blow the 20 Amp fuses?

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Joe Engelmann says:

    Do you have plans to make one like this for the 18650's? I built a similar power wall to your prototype in the media cabinet fitting two stacks of the 18650 boards and it'd be great to do this in there without y connections to the two bms's

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars GiddeonG says:

    Just a suggestion.. If you made the BMS that's on the master board into a daughter board with either a ribbon or slot connector on it the whole 4 '4 cell board modules' for each layer could be the same height. That way you could have the facility to add lateral support between the boards (like say a strip of tough plastic or even null pcb) to give it all some rigidity and avoid placing 4 heavy towers next to each other only held in place by a bit of pcb right at the bottom.
    (Also it'd be nice to have more things happening here in the U.K. if you're looking to expand your efforts to other countries any further 🙂 )

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars SirValak says:

    Hey Jehu, have you thought about a video on the DIY BMS. It looks dificult but it should be very similar to a Batrium BMS for a fraction of the cost.

    DIY BMS V4.4 is the latest one.

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars squirrel1179 says:

    Enjoying the content it's helped me convert my son's scooter from lead-acid to lithium ion. I stayed with 24-volt because that was what the original battery pack was. Can you do a video that explains when to use 12, 24, and 48 volt systems or the benefits of each voltage.

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars TEK-NANA says:

    32650s, now we're talking! I have a bunch of 32650s that I'm looking to have something done with them and this gives me an idea! Love it! Is it available now or do i have or we have to wait?

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Sean Collins says:

    Hi Jehu,
    Are you going to sell these through your European distributor PCBWAy, or have you any plans of sending to Ireland or UK?? Also,Many thanks for the great information you share.👍

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