All right time to do an update on the bms board for the headway batteries. Remember on the last uh video that i made i tested this and the uh. The little fuses here were starting to melt right, so they couldn't handle uh 200 amps. But now we have redesigned this pcb now and we have a 250 amp fuse here that, hopefully it's going to work a lot better, okay, so we're also going to change the the bus bar uh plates.

These are version. Oh man. This is our version 2 and then these are version 2.1. I think this is another.

What we did is we took off all of those vias that were in there because they really didn't add any current carrying capability right. So they just added complexity to the the build time and so uh, but they didn't add anything to the current uh carrying capability. So we just got rid of that, and so here's a new one it doesn't have that everything else is the same. Oh also, the other thing is these little notches here and then the more clearly marked a c3 and then on the bottom plate, the c4 and then c5 and those are now going to match with the uh the bms uh plate here.

So now, you're gon na have to connect a cable from here to there from here to there and then that one is going to go right onto this one right here right. So let's change those all right there they are. These are the new plates. Now, let's go to populate the new bms board, uh because uh! Well, i don't have more of these, and this is a lot of money to just leave there.

So i'm just gon na take these off put them here, put the new um fuse in there and then we'll test it out all right, so we're back now. This is version 1.2 and uh, as you can see here, uh now, there's 1.3! So since that last, since the last video i populated this - and i didn't like how the wires, especially those big wires, had to route and going to this one section - this was kind of off center. Here then, i figured i could move it more in here, but then that still caused some problems in the routing of this, and so i just didn't like it, and so i discarded re it had some mistakes. Anyways like these needed to be fully exposed because that's where all the current is going to go be going through right, 200 amps through there, and so it needed to be more of that needed to be exposed.

So i redesigned the entire board into this, and now this is version and i labeled it so it's easier to see - and i added an extra two little holes in here so now is uh. You see this are exposed and should be able to carry that current. In there i also marked where to buy the fuse so that, when you get this board there now you know where to order the fuse um. Also i added the where to order.

The bms is here - and i added two an extra uh thing here - right to mount: it uh the terminal right um, because each one of those is like 180, but if you're gon na be pushing more than that uh, then at least two so it'll give you An opportunity to put two: so that's what the new version looks like. Oh also, this one had another mistake there where that trace didn't connect there. So i had a couple of mistakes, and so since i was gon na have to change them might as well. Why not redesign them so now here it is finally populated right - and this is what it looks like now.

So what i have to do to keep it symmetrical is we have to make one of these bms's be flipped upside down and that's what you're doing see? Here's the letters, here's the thing, but now it's symmetrical. You know now here's the cable. Now this sketch is connected. I added these two extra holes in here.

Just in case we didn't - or i didn't know if these angles were going to be too sharp or you know so i just added those in there. You could uh connect them in here and they the wires look better, there's like less sharp of a turn in there, but then it requires extra hardware. So now you require three bolts to go in here, instead of just the one, so you can build it. That way, or you can build it this way, i don't know if i'll remove those will probably keep them there on the production versions of that other than that, then it becomes really simple.

This is the least amount of hardware that requires to install this, because the bolt that's going to go through here is gon na connect that, on there um, oh yeah, and actually that doesn't go anywhere. That's just a pad! So that's gon na connect this cable to the bottom and then this one in there right so those two uh bolts are required to put that in there and then these two here right. So, let's, let's do that now: let's let's mount this to the battery uh and see how easy it is all right so negative and then positive and then on this one. It's marked here negative and then positive over here.

So i probably need to put another one here - another one there, so it's just that much clearer. Also, these little notches with the c2 uh, c2, c3 and c4 are matching here and then c3 is here right, so i'm gon na put it in there. Okay, there should be no sparks if everything's done correctly. So then the screws should just go in here and then go through that ring terminal there.

And then this one goes to this ringtone okay and then these just go through the holes and then we tighten those there we go. The last thing to do is going to be to connect c4 to c4, c3 to c3 and c2 to c2. Now i wish we didn't have to do that and i'm working on something for the future, but still maybe like putting like a little connector there, but it still is going to require you to. I don't know until we can find another connector then for right now we just still have to solder those in there, and here we go.

This is what the battery looks like fully assembled. So here are the wires that we uh solder in there. It's just two long ones short one right and one little shorter, so i was going to show you a load test on this right, but you know these are a hundred, so 200 amps uh. We already did the load test on these pcbs at 500 amps.

This is what it looks like at 500 amps. So the pathways are very short: here's the negative into this board and then the the positive into into it, and then the positive outsole. You have less than an inch going in there same thing in here. The negative on from the battery runs through this cable and then it exits right here.

It dumps right into the fuse and then uh from the fuse less than an inch to the actual terminals here. So the pathways are very short: uh, 200 amps, no problem, so, instead of showing you the load test there, because we know what it's gon na look like i'd rather show you how you can possibly um package this battery right, because right now, it's naked all this Stuff's exposed, so if you set this at a metallic surface, it's gon na be fireworks because you'd short it out, but let me show you how i plan to finish this battery. So this is a box that you can get on aliexpress. I ordered it and the top goes on here and you're supposed to kind of glue it uh.

It's got this uh groove in here and then that edge right there, and so, if you put some silicon or some kind of adhesive in there, then you can glue it in there. But the cool thing is: it's got its own battery capacity and voltage. Now the question is: will this do well? This is 12 volts yeah, so no problem it's made for that right. Um here is the little cable and then here the terminals.

So now the question is: will it fit because i haven't tried this in a long time? I dropped it in there, so there we go there's plenty of room. I mean it fits there's, not that much. I think you have like yeah. Maybe you have like a quarter inch on the uh on the inside, so we have to put something in there.

Some kind of foam or something and then you'll need some cables going from these um. Oh look at that and i even i even put it the right way. Here's the negative negative so you'll need a cable to go from this to this one and then uh the same thing there so anyways. That is what my 12 volt battery is gon na.

Look like this is gon na be a small battery. It's eight cells times. Eight amp hours, so it's 64 amp hours, uh 12 volts, but it will be able to do 200 amps now. I know this battery looks like a regular car battery, but at 200 amps this battery will probably not be able to start a traditional car right.

You. I think you need more amps than that, so these bms's will get triggered on a large search, probably past, like two 300 amps. These will shut down right. So i will, i am going to make another pcb uh board for a bms, because i realized that the the whole reason for you guys wanting these batteries is because they can put out a lot of amperage.

And so some of you might want to do that. To like a start, a car, for example right - and so i did find some uh bms's here - that have the ability to start a car right. This one right here will do 200, amps uh right, but also uh can do surges of like a thousand amps right. So so there, when you click on that key to start a vehicle for example, then the bms will not turn off.

So it's almost gon na have a straight connection into the battery, so whatever the batteries are able to do that for a split second, while your engine's starting, then this is going to be able to do it right and then, after a few seconds, then it'll be Uh it'll be the 200 amps right, uh continuous it'll be 200 amps, that's what this thing can can withstand and then but surges. It has the ability to do larger searches, and so it's i'm going to make a board with this one in there and it's going to be smaller because look at that right and it's going to have a connections. It might be cheaper. Actually, because this is a single unit, it's supposed to two units and the board's gon na be smaller.

I don't. I won't have to be like this big or whatever, and so you'll have much more room to work in there uh so stay tuned for that. If you, if your application, requires the full 500 amps, for example, that this battery can put out or if it requires large surges like to start a car, then this might be the better option for you, and i will also make a different version of this board. That will just fit right on top of here.

Just like this one did uh, but we'll have this one right here right, so there we go stay tuned for that by the way. Uh. I'm gon na put this uh. I'm gon na put this on.

I'm gon na upload the file for this uh to pcbway.com is to pcbway.com the they're. The sponsor of this video and you'll be able to go and download the file or print the file and order the pcbs so that you can make your own right and then you can order all the stuff put the links to where you can order. All the parts you know, the the fuses, the terminals, all the parts, all the components that it takes to make this thing uh, as well as i'm going to link the for the previous versions, which is the bus, bars right and so also eventually, once we get Some of these inside in here then we'll be able to sell this completely assembled so that you can just you know, so you can just install it onto your battery uh, so stay tuned for the other version. If you need it or if you want to build this, one, just click on the links below you'll be able to get all the parts, and then you can build your own all right.

I want to thank you for watching this video and i want to thank pcb way for sponsoring this video check the link below, so you can order your own boards and you can build this uh battery project here right all right. Thank you see you guys on the next video bye.