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All right, this video is instructional video how to populate or how to it's a manual, a user manual for the jack 35 power box, the 24 volt power box right. This is a box that you can buy, that you can use to populate it with 18650 cells, and then you end up with a nice looking professional box. Even though this is a recycled enclosure battery enclosure right, we have repurposed it for our uses. So this is what it looks like right on the inside: it's that it is using those pcbs that use the 18650s that are available on jack 35.

So this is version one right. We have updated this and now i'm going to show you how to do version. Two version two slightly different. It looks like this, so here are the problems.

The original version had all these cables. That sometimes would be confusing. Then it had this thing here that you know you had to go from one side to the other. All that stuff gets eliminated all these cables and all these this thing right here gets eliminated, gets put into one board, and all of those connections happen on this board right here.

Also, it allows you to use one extra board um. Well, does it? No? Actually, it doesn't it's the same thing um, but here's the other thing uh. One of the problems that we were having with the first generation was that, in order to isolate the batteries from the bottom thing here so what's happening is that we use uh little plastic feet in here to attach these boards to the bottom of this plate right. But because these are made out of plastic well, they're, not super strong, and when, if you would to ship this battery all put together like this, then what would happen is that a lot of them would break.

And so a lot of you guys were getting them. And those were broken so now what we were doing is we were sending extras just so that in that instance that happened, then you could fix them right, but you know there's a there's a better fix for that right and we found it here. You go now with this board here. The connection is much solid.

Now we use these terminals, m4 terminals they're soldered into the board, but they're isolated, so they're not connected to anything. So that way, you know we drill holes on the bottom of these boards and they all line up here and then you just put a screw in here and now it's securely attached to the battery box right much more securely. It won't break this stuff will not come apart, even if you ship the box and they drop it or do something like that right. So it's much much better, much better secure, and so that's the advantage.

So it's much simpler and is stronger, uh and better made right. So there we go. We killed two birds with one stone. We made it better and we made it easier.

So now let me show you how to put it together: okay, so step one! You load! Your cells into the boards right, positive and negative. These boards are marked positive and negative right. So if your cells are brand new, then uh, then you don't really have to check them all i mean it wouldn't hurt if you do it, but usually they're all the same. When you get brand new cells, uh they're same voltage right so around 30 or 40 percent instead of charge.

But if you're reclaiming cells, if you're extracting cells from some other equipment and stuff so you're gon na, have to check all the cells and then uh put the capacity and internal resistance and only use cells that are alike right, nothing, that's too far off from each Other because, then that's how you get into trouble right when you're building batteries, you need to have batteries that are equally or you know around the same state right of health right, so uh you'll have to do that. I have a bunch of videos. Uh i'll put some links in the description of this video uh on how to do that when you're reclaiming sales right, but these are brand new, so all you have to do is load them up so positive to the positive negative to the negative, make sure they're. All the same way, okay, next step, you're gon na - have to make the uh well the uh.

The stacks right and these stacks are gon na, be one two three four five right, and so this one i started doing from the top now we're gon na. Do the bottom right so the very bottom, so you just face them all the same way see there's a connector there's a connector. If you did everything right, there should be no sparks right. You just put it on there, then.

The very the very bottom of the stack gets, these short standoffs that are made out of brass or bronze or brass right. So here we go. We stick them on. There, then you hand tighten those but not over tight.

Okay. So you do that uh three more times and then one you do four uh four of these boards and then you leave the long standoffs on the bottom and you will see why that needs to be done in a minute. But this is way simpler than the the old version, the old version. You know, there's eight boards that were different that had cables and you had to put them in the thing you had to connect.

These are all basically the same, much much easier. It's uh a lot less complex right, so let's load these into the bottom portion right. The master board that we have on the bottom. Okay - and here is the master board, and the reason why this one needs four is because the bottom section is reserved for this bms.

So now the bms is on the bottom of that, and all you have to do is put it. On top there of those square uh pads in there and then uh, we just put the screws from the bottom right, so we'll have to flip this whole thing backwards. There we go, put it like this and then put this one in here there we go. You align the holes right here.

You see that so then we put uh m30. What are these m4 screws? Okay? So now we put a next board and you do the same thing you just line it up now. Be careful, don't touch any of these other stuff, because everything's live now, and you will short it out here. Let's put the bottom, this little thing here with a little bump that goes to to the front and uh.

This is the front right. This is the one that has this little line, that's the front, so so now we're just screwing the bottom. All right! You see that the next step is to put the ribbons. All you need is the six ribbon.

Six uh connector ribbon right all right now. We just put the front okay. Next, we connect the main cable and you should see the the meter electrify there we go. You see that it's almost fully charged.

So now we put the sides of the boxes, uh well one side and then the top, and then we finish it so next we put the side here and you're gon na have to lift the entire battery. Now we do the other side. Oh wait a minute. Now, before you do that, you have to put the top next aside.

So now we just put the front on put the two screws on each side, and that's it. That's how you put your power box together when you get this it's gon na be put. You know it's gon na be assembled, so you have to disassemble it and then put it back together right, so uh you'll be able to see how it is before you even start with the project and then you'll be able to put it together. But if, for some reason you can, then you can go back and watch how i did it here.

The way i did, it is just one of many ways of putting this together right. There are other different ways that are probably easier uh halfway through this thing, i was thinking man. I should have done this, the uh some other way or whatever right, but this is just one way, uh that you can put it together, um. I hope you enjoy your power box and we'll see you guys on the next video.

Thank you bye. You.

9 thoughts on “24v Powerbox v2”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars neon dawn says:

    you should design a new top board for structural rigidity. the reason is you are relying on the bottom board to keep the 5 towers steady, but the pcb material flexes and may be able to break if it is dropped. the board only needs holes in the proper places to secure the towers of cells.

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Ronnie Zaldivar says: is very easy and cool to assemble..18650 battery bank.. congrats sir..I like your new hussle to assemble and beside that it is easy to troubleshoot if there is problem..good job sir..thanks..

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jason Broom says:

    That is very cool. The same thing, using LiFePO4 26650's, would be AWESOME! My guess is that may be in the works. (I'm talking a 24v version, not the 12 and 36 volt thing you built.)

    The problem with these is the cost/energy ratio is not great. You wind up with 24v @ just under 80ah. The case is $400 and the cells (7×24=168) are going to cost at least $250, for known good cells, so you're dropping $650 on the project, AND you have to build it yourself. Two of the Sony 26650, 24v powerwall modules you sell, even at the full $200, will cost less, deliver more power, have a safer battery chemistry, and there is basically nothing to build…you just connect them in parallel and hook them up to your charging system and your load. Also, the Sony packs have only 112 cells per pack, so fewer units to go wrong. Unless someone has a pile of 18650's, that they trust, laying around their house, I don't see this box making a lot of sense. Super fun and cool…but not terribly practical.

    18650's have their place, but they only make sense is smaller configurations. If you need more power, you get larger cells…not 168 small cells. I just ordered 8 of the 60280 cells and will connect them in an 8S configuration for 55AH in about 5 minutes. I could build two of those for just slightly more than it would cost for one of these 18650 projects, giving me 110AH for $600, but taking less than an hour to build.

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Thomas Bauer says:

    Many thanks for the version 2, this is really awesome.
    How to order those from Europe? I am interested in the 12v version 2 type.
    I was not able to find them on JLCPCB.

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars mike malenfant says:

    It’s a great idea but the cost needs to come down for it to become a game changer. $400 for the enclosure which gives you 7s24p of space, you have to use expensive cells for it to make sense. Stacking the enclosures with cheaper salvaged cells would still end up being expensive.
    Again not hating , it’s an awesome idea and opens to door to someone who hasn’t invested into all the tools needed to build battery’s.

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Nigel S says:

    I just happened to order one of these, didn't realize I was getting the v2. I started the build today . After disassembling the box, I left the bottom totally intact (took the sides and top off). I've started to fill the PCBs from the top and it's really easy. Great product

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Kswis says:

    Man that looks like a blast to build. Is it 60 amps continuous? What kind of surge can the bms handle? And can you run 2 power boxes is series? I def liked the first version but the new one is so clean

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mark LaDoux says:

    how tall are your battery boards when populated? Also, would these be safe to use in a 48v setup? Sorry if the question seems stupid, I'm doing my research. I'm thinking of a 19" rackmount solution to use as a UPS for my servers in my home lab. I know I can buy one, but I kinda want to build my own 😀

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Tri Tran says:

    Is it me or are the screws at the bottom of the PCB very close to the case bottom plate? Even with the solder metal standoff, it seem very close. I would put some kind of insulation foam pads on those screws as extra protections.

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