1. Are you a JW

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2. I would like to ask why you direct-mounted the motor.

   I was under the impression that most gas to electric conversions put the motor where the engine was and used the stock transmission with an adapter.

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3. I'm a little surprised EV West hasn't engineered a solution for this. I realize the VW transmission is a bit of a unique beast, but something like the Powerglide hooked to a differential or even a method of setting up the motor in a more traditional transverse mount with a smart car ev or similar transmission.

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4. think you have a bad gear or bearing!!! about the leaking, bad bearings, miss alignment and old seals can make it leak, worn bearings make that worse, remeber, you have way more torque then whit the old vw engine. you tear it all apart iff its miss aligned., not to mention the cv joints….. lol

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5. I have some electric motor attach to conveyor belt that when the transmission gear box F.top. from machinist that doesn't empty there chip bins… sometime they get really loud. But if they are well attach they still don't vibrate like your motor did. Take this example you could have a laundry machine with a load on only one side of the washer and it will vibrate like hell but the motor attach to the component won't vibrate compared to the whole thing. Having a part fix that generate vibration won't fix the problem that the whole motor vibrate compare to the car body. The car will still shake on the road and create that look a like crazy vibration that you don't like and feel at the end. You will still need to cut the vibration where it start with better mounting parts.

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6. So we have noted a few things: the motor vibrates a lot, the transmission has issues, and those two things are a design "feature" of VW vans. The mounting plate for the motor can act as a fulcrum with the motor as a lever, also something on the other side of the fulcrum is absorbing the motor vibrations and that would be the transmission. I believe the vibrations of the motor are enough to bridge the grease film of the motor bearings I also think the vibrations coming from the unsupported motor are enough to bridge the oil film gap in the transmission. In short there's a lot of metal to metal contact on both sides of the mounting plate fulcrum. I would support the motor correctly and that should correct the design flaw that is the crux of the VW van transmission issues.

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7. Hola JeHu! Al empezar a girar, (minuto 2.19- 2.21), se ve cómo el tambor empieza a girar desbalanceado, y el golpeteo podría ser del tambor contra el plato porta balatas. Si el problema no es el tambor, quizás sea justo la punta de la flecha que esté torcida por algún golpe, si acaso ésta fuera "reconstruida". Un saludo!

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8. Does it happen in every gear?
   Does the motor adaptor have a top and bottom can it be rotated to different mounting positions to find if there is a sweet spot of alignment?

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9. Yup, its still an old VW. No matter how much it costs to convert it will still drive like an old VW. 🙂 The beauty of simplicity.

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10. You might want to take a look at Subrugears. They make reverse ring and pinion kits so that Subaru transaxles can be used in VW applications. Keep in mind that Subaru transaxles stock were designed with a lot more HP and torque in mind and would be better able to take the power dished out by electric motors.

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11. sad outlook. 🙁 my transmission needs replaced too, I have no 4th gear.
    I still love my bus. <3

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12. have you considered using 2 motors and no transmission? A motor to each drive wheel.

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13. I'd rather find a transmission in a junk yard from something like a Porsche (20 years or younger) that could handle this motor. Instead of relying on a trans that was made for a tiny gas engine 50 years ago. There would be a lot of fabrication and you may need more than just the trans but it would be worth it.

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14. Ok, I'm stumped. You do know you should balance the flywheel and pressure plate. Im surprised that Michael doesn't keep after you about that.

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15. Think I saw a nail in the tire.

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16. Duh, I just recommended that….

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17. Look on the backside of both rear drums and see if there are any marks like it was hit with a grinder. It does sound like drive line noise. Just because the hubs were good 6 months ago we need to remember that it puts down something like three times the torque of any stock vw engine. Its a process of elimination of parts. Is this a type 1 transmission? I can look up some of the original service data tomorrow

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