1. change spring and absorber ? if your transmission is more prime , it would affect rear shock absorber and springs in particular if they are old

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2. Get rid of the adaptor plates at the wheels and change the front gearbox mount

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3. I noticed the wheel closest to the camera has a bit of out of round. I remember the old vw's where sensitive to over tightening of the wheel nuts that can pull the break drum out of round, just a thought.

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4. Put it on a rolling road and then see if the motor still bounces. If it does then it could be from vibration caused by resonance of the van floor structure.

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5. You need to lock those brake lines down. With them hanging free you're going to break a line.

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6. why didnt you show us it being fixed ?

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7. VERY IMPORTANT as 0755345600 said below, you MUST secure the metal brake line to the axle housing where the flexible line is connected. If left as is, the metal pipe WILL BREAK somewhere close to the wheel cylinder.

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8. dynamic load from the road and differential causing harmonic bounce ? great vids.

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9. You've already answered your question.

   The Mounts were softer than those that came out.

   Rubber/poly mounts have a constant deflection rating meaning they don't increase their resistance the more they are compressed so if the old ones were old and hard, or made of harder material then they would have had far less deflection and compression than the new ones meaning less motor bounce.

   I'd also think about fitting a rear mount to the motor as it's like a bronco under there and it would weigh roughly if not more than the gear box so you get that sea saw action that will make it handle weird.

   also have a look at your front mount (if it has one as Australian ones had quite a few differences) on the gearbox as they have a tendency to eat them with high torque applications (Such as Turbo engines) and sometimes bend the bracket.

   I don't see the brake drums and your decel etc making a huge difference in that.

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10. a vibration issue is about the worst thing to diagnose.
    the best way to look at the situation is to isolate component by component and test the effect of every change.(and bring the things back if there is no result )
    first, I'll check the geometry of the rear axle to be sure that the wheels stay parallel when the torque is applied ( possibility for a bad bushing or a component that not intended for this year of vehicule )( probably that the acceleration with the electric motor is much more powerful so could lead to the warping of one link or one bushing so check with persons that installed a more powerful engine on this type of vehicule)
    If it is possible, I'll go back to the standard engine to make a try and check if the problem still occurs, if so, the problem is in the drivetrain
    if the problem does not repeat with the gas engine, it is a resonnance between the motor, the controller and the rear axle : there is many ways to solve, the easier is to play with the weight of the flywheel, with a scope, it,s possible to pinpoint the trouble by monitoring the input of the motor.
    a test on a chassis dyno can give you hints too.
    it,s the type of issue that needs to take your time, to be methodic and a lot of patience.
    good luck

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11. I think a rear motor mount. Needed and you said the mounts are a softer material this could allow for oscillation and vibration also maybe fly wheel or something is off set to the balance

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12. sway bar link

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13. your rims are screwed or they are not centered

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