So you bought your L60 cells somewhere else and now you're wondering how you're going to make them into our beautiful little batteries here. Well luckily for you, I don't hold grudges and I will show you how to make one of these boxes for your Sal buuck up because today I'm going to show you how to build the 148 amp Power Pro Fat box right? This a custom box that I designed and that I now offer as a kid and you can buy it and you can build it right? So obviously here what all the parts look like right and I'd say you start by so I recommend that you start by putting the bottom to one of the sides. Is it the side or the ends? I don't know I don't know how to call these right but these are probably the sides, bottom side, top side and then the ends are here and you secure them on the bottom by putting the little screws in there. And by the way you're going to get these box fully assembled so you will have to disassemble it and then you're then you'll you put it back together.
and the reason we're doing that is because you're more likely to know how to put it together if you took it apart right and so the the taking apart is not that much work and it kind of shows you what it's supposed to look like when you're done. So here now we're putting uh, those three screws there on the side right just to hold it and where you're going to do one side and then two ends. And the reason for that being is that then you will slide your cells more easily in there, right? So the three sides and then here's the uh, the other, the bottom side right here, right? So before you put it on now, we're going to work on the cells. and here are the cells that you bought somewhere else or you bought them in our website.
But for some reason you want to put this together and so there we go. So then what you do is you grab the bus bar, you put it right there and then that will guide you as to the positive and negative posts of the cells, right? So you just match them at the very top, in that corner, you know the positives in the corner, the negatives towards the middle, and then you just follow the the diagram there. that's why those are all labeled like that. So just to help you and then notice that their Uh cells are two positives are together and then two negatives are together and then and then they alternate right and then the positive goes towards the end and then the last two cells will match and then you put the bus bar in there that just slides in there and it's much easier to do it right now than to wait.
Uh, and do it afterwards, right? So you just do that. Before we do that though, we want to check to make sure that that fits in there. So these uh are/ quter inch thick and they have to be that thick to be able to carry the 1200 amps that this batter's designed to fully do right. And so for that reason, you will have to use thin uh hex nuts in here, right? And because there's not much room, there's not many threads that stick out past that quarter inch. So we need that plate to be as thick as possible, right? So this is the thickest that we can get it and then still be able to use uh nuts in there uh without having to Mill that uh part. And so you know by quadrupling the price of it, right? So this is, you know, kind of a happy medium there. it will carry the amps, but it's still cheap enough so that doesn't affect the price the total price of this bag battery. you know too much negatively, right? So once you do those right there next what we're going to do is put the square and uh bus bar and that's a E inch right? So that's much smaller.
and the reason is because it's got more Pathways to carry all that current so it doesn't have to be quarter inch and that what that does gives allows you to use the full siiz nut has a serated ends right? so it doesn't back itself out so you'll use the regular nuts on this one. Okay so now we're going to put the the bottom side of this and you put all the screws in there and here. I'm showing you what screws it takes. Okay so next what we're going to do is we're going to install the terminal blocks into those d-shaped Uh plates right? And then those little squares are risers cuz it needs to rise.
You need to raise that block above the Uh PCB topper that this battery has right? So we'll use those screws right there. Those are counter sunk on the bottom so they can be flush and then that's a flathead screw. We have to make sure that they're facing the right way right because the terminal block has bigger holes for big thicker wire gauge on one side than the other one so just match them if you want your battery to look symmetrical. Here are the other ones now here: I suggest you not tighten these plates because they have a little bit of play and the reason for that play is so that it could uh match perfectly match with with the top plate that has holes in it right? and so in order for it to match I'd have to put a little bit of play in there.
So what you do is you kind of finish this whole thing. You put the top and then once you find the place then you take it off and then you tighten all the bolts underneath. But the next thing that we're doing here is installing that little connector that five pin connector that is for the balancer. And here's something very important that you have to do before you install that you have to back up and open up those uh, the holes where these screws are going to go into right? Uh, only Then will you be able to install that right? So you have to go on through every little screw, back it out and open the little hole and then you stick the whole connector in there and then you tighten it.
It's tighten, you can pull on it. Now you we test it, we put the battery monitor and if everything shows up good then you. We did everything right right. You'll have to use two of those little connectors for this design unless we sent you a long one. I I Think we're going to try to get longer on so you don't have to do this. but at this point where I'm putting this battery together, we only had the short ones and so that's why I'm using that. but you might get a longer one that it's just one cable right? Okay so here's the part where we put the topper plate and see I'm like pushing it around to fine and align the bolts the holes on the on the top right. so those those terminals are moving a little bit here and there.
they have a little bit of wiggle room because they're not 100% tighten and then once you find that, then you remove it. and now we use the wrench to tighten all the screws. Now that everything is there now we put the top and now it should line up because you had already measured it and you have already lined it up right? So now you just put all the screws. Now now you can flip the battery over.
Now we're going back all the way even to the bottom. and we're just putting all the screws now. Right when you first start, you kind of just put one here and one there just to secure the parts. Uh, but if you have to change anything or take it apart again, then you don't have to remove.
you know, 100 screws. So that's why I recommend you leave this. uh, putting all the screws until the very very end. Like this.
once you're done right and so now you know you won't have to take it apart. Okay, the last thing is now you just plug in the bat. Go. and you know in order to secure the bat, go there.
You could just use double-sided tape. You put it on the back of that little unit and you stick it to the bottom. Um, PCV There and then it's done. It won't you know? Flop around, it won't come out.
You could still remove it just by pulling it right. The double-sided tape is could be strong, but um, it's not permanent and so you know it's easy. You don't have to use screws you don't have to use n it's just a little little square of double-sided tape. There is our battery.
This battery is very, very powerful. As you know, it could do 1200 amps for 10 seconds or 800 amp continuous right? So that's 14,000 watts. and it's mainly designed for audio use because well, that's that's who needs a very, very powerful 12vt battery. But of course your If your application requires a very very powerful 12vt battery, you could also use it.
It it's not. You know, it's like it's just a a battery, but people who are using it, it's very popular among those, right? And it doesn't have a BMS So when you charge it, you have to use the balancer for the first time. You charge it all the way up. If the cells are not even, then all you have to do is just end the charging before any of the cells get past 3.65 and then turn the balancing on and then leave it there for a few hours or a few days depending on how long it takes and then once the all the cells are leveled, then you put it to charge again. Now if again, they all start drifting apart at the very top. Then you repeat the process, Then you put the balance in again, stop the charge, then you put the balancing and then they all balance each other and then you until you can get it up to like 4.8 I Think that's the max voltage that 4S uh Lithium iron phosphate? uh was recommended right for safe for no degradation. That's the cool thing about this battery that's got the built in be balancer right? So once you do that you you should be fine. Unless unless you have some cells that maybe are not great or maybe they differ from the other ones, these little balancer should be able to and the initial balance that you did should be able to stay good for a long time.
you know I would check it every 6 months or something. You just just charge it all the way up or look at wherever the batter's at and then see how well those cell groups are balanced and if they're not, then just turn on the Uh balancing feature on the bad, go and that's it. That is your 148 aamp hour l V60 battery. Uh, this is the pro fat and the fat is just the style.
It's the way that is built those other batteries that I will show you how to put together that are exactly the same uh, electrically. The only difference is that uh they shape a little bit different and those are called different. The really long skinny one is called the slim and then there's another one that's in the middle that's called the long one. and then there's like a smaller version of this, right? So anyways, we'll make videos of all those different sizes and so that you have choices, uh, according to your build right.
Sometimes you won't be able to fit this big one in there, but maybe you can fit two of the little ones. Or maybe you can't fit one of the long ones or the skinny one. You know, that sort of stuff. Uh, go to Jack 35.com This kit is available there and you should be able to buy it and then use your sales that you bought either from us or somewhere else and then put this battery together.
Okay, thank you for watching this video. We'll see you guys on the next one. Bye.
Thank you for making these videos explaining things like the balancing process i just purchased your 74AH pro V2 and im waiting for it to be shipped and I was concerned about how often these actually needed to be balanced and maintained for a car audio application
Pretty sweet looking battery!
do you also have options that use 18650 cells? for grid solar or some other holder/bms rack?
How close are the Lew 60 to the LEV 40's?
Would that work well with a 1500watts inverter to use say camping or power failure?
Yet another comprehensive great video
Can you imagine the top cover getting bent or banged on just to short out a ticking time bomb😂
Looks like an accident waiting to happen!!! Scary!
S.O.S I would highly recommend using blue Loctite on all the nuts holding down the busbars! As well as all the screws for the entire case
Nice 👍
Anybody wire these up yet?
need to see more 48v setups for the pedicab industry
could a car charge system charge those battery?
Hey Jehu, please find a way to get better shipping rates. I'm looking at the fiat 5s batteries, shipping for 2 is $122. It's only 50lbs total. 38% of the cost of me getting the batteries is shipping. And I really do like buying from you because you have some of the best $/kwh, but the shipping fees ruin it.