All right guys, time for a battery update. All right, this is the battery that we're talking about here. This is a gonna be a rack mount, but also a wall mount. uh, enclosure for the 16s, right? 48 volts, uh LED 60 cells the lithium on phosphate right? It will be a little bit smaller than your typical uh, you know, five kilowatt hour rack mount units.

Uh, because those are usually 100 amp hours, this one's at 74 would only yield about 30 almost 3 800 watt hours, right? 37.88 and so. But I think what we're going to do is offer this as a kit before until we configure the shipping stuff because shipping something this big and this large, uh, it's it's well, it's hard and so you know unless you buy like a pallet worth of them or you know, at least four of them so we can put on a palette. it's almost like not used. Uh, not very cost efficient to do it right.

and so for that reason I think we're gonna offer this probably first as a kid. But first I have to finish a design and this is what this video is about. I'm showing you the improvements that I made as of as of last time. right? last time I showed you a little bit of what this uh was going and how I was dealing with some of the Um design constraints and some of the challenges that I had.

and so I this is the second iteration I Guess this is the second part and so I'm gonna tell you what it would do. So first what I was trying to do was try and uh obviously would you try to do is minimize the amount of parts right because the less parts that you can get into design than the cheaper is going to be the simpler that it's going to be right. And so what I was trying to do was trying to eliminate this plate right here. This is the plate on this side that will compresses the cells and by compressing the cells well Two, it compresses the cells which I think these might need.

Uh in the long run. we're not 100 clear that because the spec sheet doesn't specify that, but also what the compression does is a way to actually Mount the cells and you know, keep them inside the box. and so this is the compression plates. These are two plates that are exactly the same right? and so it's just one on this side on the other side.

and so what I was trying to do is minimize eliminate this plate on this side and so I drill some holes in here and then I put some uh, rivet nuts in here and then I was just like gonna use this um wall here as this side of the compression. right now there are some issues that arise from that and as I've been playing with this for an hour or two here, I realize that maybe that's not the good way to do it about it Yes, I would eliminate one part and so a little bit of cost in here, but it would introduce a few more issues like for example, the fact that this whole plate this is an L right and I'm trying to again eliminate uh, the amount of parts. So that's why I'm making the bottom and the back side that's one piece already bent right. Um, and so what happens is that this is, uh, well, this is really thin.
I mean it's it's thick enough to be a nice sturdy enclosure, but it is not the thickness that is required to be to compress these cells. And so when I was putting that in there, what ended up happening is that this was deflecting a lot and so in order to fix that, I would have to add an internal plate. uh, just to stiffen this side up and I'm like, well, if I'm doing that now, I'm not saving a lot because I'm adding another uh piece in here, right? And so also the other point that was happening was that then it doesn't give me a place to add the the French cleat. So this is a French cleat.

A few of you guys suggested this as a way to hang this battery and this is just kind of like a an angled uh plate that goes on the outside of this and then it'll it'll just hang on another one in here, right? So in order to attach this on the back side of this box, well I need to be able to have screws go through right and so if these cells are right up against this, then there's nowhere to put them because then I would have to then raise the cells up to allow for that. and now I would have to increase the whole width or the whole depth of the box which is a standard um I think I said last time that it was a three uh, space rack unit but it's it's actually more a four. so this is actually a four. then there's a five over there.

so this is within the that thing so you will be able to stack it and it makes sense. if I had to add another quarter inch or an eighth inch or whatever. then all of a sudden gets in trouble that you won't be able to actually well use standard racks to do this right. or because if I have to raise it just a little bit more then I would have to add it like a whole Space which is I don't know an inch, almost like 1.7 inches.

I Think that's how it works out. So then that would make a box that is much bigger than it actually needs to be right? And so I think we're gonna keep this and we're gonna push the whole battery pack that way and then leave this our benefit of doing that. Then it is that because this is the back end of this box and I'm gonna put um Handles in the front over here. When people are handling this right either for shipping or for installation purposes, what is then most likely going to end up happening is that they're going to, uh, they're gonna probably drop.

If anybody drops this, then it's probably gonna drop it on this side. and so if I have the cells right up against the back wall here, then the cells might get damaged. but if I have a little bit of room in here then this can deflect. This can get damaged but the cells can stay remain safe and so that's another.

uh Pro another advantage of having the cells not be right up against the back over here, right? just to give you. So as it stands right now, the cells are not touching any of the outside I don't than the bottom, uh, the top. even the top is going to have some air gap in there. So uh, so that's a good thing because if you damage it, you drill some holes or dig or deflect the sides because something dropped into it.
There's a little bit of wiggle room there before the cells actually get damaged, right? and so that's that's a good design feature. I think uh on this side over here. um I had kind of made a uh, an error here but I realized what it was. The measurements weren't completely off.

This is asymmetric. Uh, the the screws here are not. you know, uh, the same distance and stuff. So so I had it backwards.

When I put the uh the design the way that it was going to be bent, it just ended up being backwards. So then I was like oh, they're not that bad, but they are a little bit off. You see how those buttons here are a little bit off so it's I think now I've uh, adjusted the the you know the dimensions there so those holes are exactly uh Center where this is at and it allowed it to put this little. It's little buttons that go into those things right here, right? and so now you'll be able to put the little button and it'll look something like that and it'll look a little bit more finished, right? So that's that's the thing.

Um, also the the I'm gonna use a PCB here on the front. uh I don't know if it's by itself or I'm gonna uh, put a backing, a metal, back it in here and then put this as a front thing just so that I could easily have all this text in here and also for some isolating purposes, right? Because these are going to be live positive and negative or negative and positive or negative. Uh, and so I want to put some little uh, other boards that overlay here that are like color coded. so this one will be black and this will be red and it'll ha.

It'll be a little bit elevated here. it'll just be really easy to be able to tell which post is which. um I might have to put like a divide I don't know. I'm thinking of a few ideas here, right? Uh, but I'm gonna use Pcbs because those are you know, Fr4 that's just fiberglass dashboard and that's a good insulator and so that's going to be the thing here.

it's going to be a full-fledged box just like all the other ones that are on the market that are 48 volts right rack mounts they. So basically it's going to have a a uh a circuit breaker here is gonna have an on off button I think I just haven't done that because I have uh I haven't actually connected this yet to test how it works. There's a connector in there that I don't know what it is for I think it's for the on off button so then I will have to choose a push button and then order that because this unit the uh BMS unit doesn't come with one so I'll you know then I'll have to Source One out basically. But then finally I got all this dimensions in here correct now? So now I can put them in there and everything fits and stuff and everything's labeled.
uh and so we're getting really close. I'm waiting for these parts uh to come in to try them and as soon as those work out, then I do that and I order another part that has this correct the dimensions here. Now the other thing that I'm doing is, um, just figuring out how the the wiring is going to lay out. Um, what? This is actually not that hard.

It seems like a giant mess in there, but I wanted to see if these cables that came with the BMS worked in this scenario and it does right. It's a little bit messy in there. maybe we can even use zip ties to make it a little bit neater when we actually do this or in the final Productions or in the bills or in the how-to videos, right? Uh, there's this cable that has to go to the positive. so the positive is going to be here, but the positive is going to go to the circuit breaker.

and so maybe when we crimp the circuit breaker here, we'll crimp the other cable that goes on there and so now you just have a place to connect it. Uh, I don't know. this needs to be before or after the circuit breaker. We'll have to.

Uh, we'll have to look at the design or the literature if there's any literature on this BMS thing, right? Um, other than that, the other things that I have to figure out is now the balance wires and these are all the balance wires I separate them I separated the four temperature sensors and those uh I Think what I'm gonna do is just put a dab of uh, silicon or some thermal paste that is going to go in here and then just glue them in here. probably one here, one there, one there, and one there. So then it's kind of like in the center of the pack. there's four of these uh sensors, right? and they reached there.

so that's fine. I think we're gonna do something probably to put like zip ties in there so that you can run those wires in there. Now these ones are the what? What's so 17? it should be 17 wires that are the balance leads and here I have put where the little connector is going to be which has like little uh terminals, right screw terminals. so it should be really easy to you to stick that cable in that little ring on a little connector and then just turn a screwdriver, put it in there right? But I don't like the fact that I put this right in the center here.

I did that for symmetry. but you know sometimes symmetry doesn't work and so the fact that these are going to be live and you're going to be doing this thing in here, you might short it out when you're trying to do it. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to redesign this board to push it this way and I'm going to put it right here because there's nothing here and so it will be a much better designed to just go straight in here and you could cut these and then splice them. or you can just use the the thing as they are because they already come with like pre uh, thin and and so then you could just use this a zip tie to you know, put the rest of the the extra cable in there, right the slack and so I think I'm gonna redesign that.
Also, the other problem that we were discussing last time was the fact that uh, this, this is really close here. You see that. So I'm going to show you right here. There's plenty room there.

You don't need a lot of room. There's about 3 8 of an inch something like that, right? So eight, about eight millimeters or something like that between the top of this box and the top of those those uh, nuts, right? And so that is that is enough to be isolated. But you know if if this box ever gets dropped upside down, then these cells are going to go and touch the back of the casing here, right? And so I need to be able to isolate that. and so I think what I've come up with is I'm gonna make holes here I'm gonna put standoffs, uh every so often here, just put a set of standoffs here that are gonna actually when you put the case in here is are going to be touching the case and so that way this battery is not flopping around in there right and so if it ever gets flipped around and if it ever drops or something this literally can not, this could literally could not go and touch the the top, the top uh surface of this case in here or the the you know the cover of this and so that's one way I like that because then it does give a little bit of um well it does give some room.

um between that and this. But the other thing now is that I'm thinking about it is that if I put standups now those are small little things that if you flip it around if there's enough Force now you jab those into the cells here. So maybe that's not the best. Maybe what I need to do is do like a solid thing.

Maybe we'll do like um uh uh I don't know I think I might have to rethink this. Maybe stand-ups are not the best way and what I need to do is just do a sheet of uh of FR right? So maybe like here or maybe like a angle tubing or something. uh oh yeah, check that maybe that out. so see, there's nothing going on here.

Well I'm gonna put the connector, but let's say that I could find another place to put that connector. if I run to a square tubing in here, right? and so it's in between here. there's nothing that is conductive here. and now the the top sits on on top of that square tubing and then on top of this, then that's a much bigger surface area that's not gonna jab itself in there.

Maybe that's what's gonna end up doing. I Still gotta figure that out. Uh, but this is where I'm at right now. Let me show you what it looks like with the cover on.

Okay, so here is the the top. It slides in really easy and now you have all these holes so that you can put screws and attaches to the bottom. I Put these extra screws in here to put L brackets if maybe that's how you want to mount this right? So we're going to have some some options. Um, and then also this version I'm You know I'm designing two versions of these box at the same time.
I Want the same box to be able to to use it again for a rack mount unit with the screen on the front like this, but also as a wall unit. and if you put this on the wall, you don't want this screen in the front over here because this is going to be the bottom so you won't be able to see it. So that's why I put it in here right now. eventually I will order two versions of this of this cover but everything else is going to be the same and so that's why I'm trying to figure all the the features of designer the way the um the dimensions right and get them when I get them right here then I just transfer them up here and that's it.

But also I did wanted to see the mechanical to see that putting the screen over here was not going to interfere with anything on the bottom because again, we don't have a lot of room in there right? and so that's what why this is here I Just tested that and there's plenty of clearance inside there so that uh, that can make both of these designs work at the same time. So that is how this battery is looking like so far I know that was a lot of rambling I know there was a lot of stuff and I know that I'm still designing this or some some shelling here. um uh but anyways, this is just uh well this is actually not that short of a video but uh. anyways, this is just an update on this design.

I'm trying to get this as soon as possible. I'm also working on other designs for the smaller batteries also like uh, you know, steel cases for them right? because uh it's always I mean this is our kind of naked batteries and they're cool to look at and stuff but you know in the real world you need to just kind of protect them and isolate them from the environment and wherever you're going to install them. So casing putting a full case on a battery that is the best thing to do and that's what separates the you know, the the the the really crude DIY from the really Advanced diying we want to be Source towards the advanced side of that things right? Uh, since we've been operating this stuff for a few years now, so there you go I wanted to give you that they and I will see you guys on the next video. Stay tuned if you like this.

If you're interested in these cells, uh they're have great price right now. they're not going to last forever. We have a time limit as to when we need to purchase them and so in order to purchase them we have to sell sell a certain amount of them so they're gonna go. We can't just keep them in stock right? So we're just trying to move them and stuff and so if you're on the fence getting some high quality, really affordable lithium-ion phosphate and now that is, you're going to be able to.

You know DIY a nice little case and stuff and that it's not, you know, just some crude thing put together then this, This is it right? So all right? Thank you. We'll see you guys on the next video. Bye Oh foreign.

17 thoughts on “Diy rack mount 48v lifepo4 off grid battery project”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars tlteal says:

    If you decide to sell one of these after you get the design straight and are happy with it, please let me know.

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Manny Santizo says:

    have you considered gluing a piece of isolating foam or plastic directly on the back of the case cover so that i will isolate the terminal from the metal portion of the case – so if it does get crushed or dropped you will have insulation between the meal and the battery terminals – this is a cheap solution that will not add much cost to the build. Simple is better.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars K D says:

    @jehugarcia separate question.. ordered the batteries, the BMS you list which I also ordered.. that will handle all needs for all 16 cells? I assume that handles the charging and monitoring of battery cells, etc? I thought BMS handled balance charging too but you have the dual Batgo units in a diff video from a few weeks back, are those used to balance charge between cells?

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dragon Master says:

    And finally, something else to consider. If you rotate the pack 90 degrees, there's all kinds of space behind it. The shallowest standard 19" rack is 23.62" deep, but most are 31.5" deep and a full depth rack is 39" deep. I personally have a 39" deep rack because I have a tape library which has a chassis 42" long (by far the longest of any of my rackmount equipment). Sadly that extended depth doesn't allow for 3 packs side by side by side, unless the BMS compartment is really compact, but the typical middle depth does allow for 2 packs side by side, in a 16s2p configuration, with plenty of room for the BMS compartment. If you have success with this single pack design (you're going to crowd fund it, right?), you might consider a double pack design as a followup project.

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dragon Master says:

    Still on the subject of rack mounting, there is the question of maintenance. One of the purposes of rails is to slide the chassis out of the rack without actually dismounting it in order to work on the machine inside. My current 2U rackmount UPS has mounting ears, not rails. By necessity, it's a front loader. To change the batteries, I unscrew an access plate and slide the cells out (a 4s lead-acid pack) horizontally.

    This battery box you're building is what's called a top loader. The cells are set into the case from the top. To be maintenance-friendly, the sides of the chassis need to be integral with the bottom, so the whole thing can ride on rails into and out of the rack for cell replacement. The top is just a lid, in that case.

    I know that probably increases the expense of fabrication, but it's something to consider. If you rotate the pack, as I suggested, and only have a single pack in the case, then you can leave off the rails and cell replacement means disconnecting and dismounting the entire chassis from the rack, obviating the need to have integral sides.

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dragon Master says:

    I'll echo and reinforce what justinsayre4856 said. A rackmount kit needs to come with rackmount rails. Many years ago I bought a DIY rackmount computer case (just the empty case) and it didn't come with rails. The only rails I could find make it sit wrong in the rack, so a 2U box takes up 3U of space, wasting 1U in my rack. Your kit should come with rails, and the box needs to have mounting holes at the right height drilled and tapped to match the rails. Generic rails are available and work fine as long as the case is matched to them.

    The mounting location for the rails is somewhat arbitrary. I have a couple of 4U chassis in my rack right now and their rails are in different places. One is 1U down from the top and the other is 1U up from the bottom. There are some with the rails aligned with the top 1U, with the whole case slung below them. Those are some of the easier ones to get into the rack because you can see what you're doing when lining up the inner and outer rails.

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars K D says:

    Are these brand new cells? The site says "as is" and not responsible for them.. makes me think they are used cells.. which would mean they wont have 6000+ lifecycle charges right? Whats the number of recharge until 80% left?

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Hola! โšกIGOR KVACHUNโšก says:

    Yes video.๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ”‹

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Huy Tran says:

    Would love to see how much this package cost. EG4 5.12 kw rack is around $1.4k FYI. I thought he were in San Jose area for local pickup but seems like the warehouse is in the south

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Raymond Miller says:

    Do you know you were first interesting watching because you get of a diversity of different types of batteries but now youโ€™re chasing money instead of audience and youโ€™re doing one damn thing and youโ€™re losing us. What happened to building E bike batteries and stuff like that that was interesting you make in his power wall yeah thatโ€™s great but every video is power wall I mean come on make something different.

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Faraz Yasrobi says:

    Hi Jehu, I am guessing there is a "How to" video coming up soon to mount this on a wall or rack. It would be awesome if you also demo how these can be connected in parallel.

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Andre Martel says:

    Just put a sheet of insulation in the
    cover .

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars rick57 says:

    I like this design. I would like to see it available as a kit so that the end user could add a different battery (within the dimension limitations) if they choose, and at a reasonable price. An insulator strip above the terminals on the lid might be helpful.

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Joe F says:

    Have you thought about making the screen detachable instead of developing two separate units? Along with having the ability to mount the display on the outside of another case? So let's say you had two units inside a case you can remote mount the display to the outside so that you can see both cases information.

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Eric Scherzinger says:

    Looks Great Jehu. Can't wait until you sort out all the small kinks in the design. Hope that you can sell these as fully assembled units and offer local pickup if shipping is an issue with the weight of the unit.

    Great dedication and passion you have in the diy battery community over the years.

    Keep it up Jehu!

    Cheers from Toronto Ontario Canada.

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars SylwerDragon says:

    Nice video indeed. It looks much better now.
    – I would suggest to use full sheet of some FR4 (but not that as that is too expensive) or similar cheap laminated board(on both top and bottom as well.. you can see that supplier can bring a lot of them pretty cheaply..to insulate whole sheet with some double sided tape or mount it to those U brackets (AL brackets that are used to hold those cells together by two screw's at left and right side) or glue it directly to your casing (top side and bottom) both will work i suppose ..it needs to be calculated what is cheaper and fast to do ..and such
    – Then I think that BMS might need some protection ..it doesn't matter if it is before or after DC disconnector or circuit breaker..but from practical point of view it should be after c. breaker ..anyway BMS needs some protection ..some fuse or such..
    – Also i suggest to use 90 degree connector to connect those balancing wires..it will be better for sure with connection and also safety point of view.

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars G H says:

    What other batteries for in box?

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