48v DIY Box kit - https://jag35.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/48v-custom-steel-enclosure-kits-for-16x-lev60?variant=41002323771507
Additional parts you will need to complete this project:
16x LEV60 Cells - https://j35.us/16xLEV60-48v
100A JBD BMS - https://j35.us/100Ajbd-BMS
48v PCB Busbar - https://j35.us/48v-PCB-Busbar
Ferrules - https://j35.us/FerruleKit
2Awg Cables - https://j35.us/4Awg-1foot-3-8
125A DC Breaker - https://j35.us/125A-DC-Breaker
Recommended Charger/Inverter - https://j35.us/LV6548
Additional parts you will need to complete this project:
16x LEV60 Cells - https://j35.us/16xLEV60-48v
100A JBD BMS - https://j35.us/100Ajbd-BMS
48v PCB Busbar - https://j35.us/48v-PCB-Busbar
Ferrules - https://j35.us/FerruleKit
2Awg Cables - https://j35.us/4Awg-1foot-3-8
125A DC Breaker - https://j35.us/125A-DC-Breaker
Recommended Charger/Inverter - https://j35.us/LV6548
Today I'm going to show you how to put together this DIY battery kit. This kit right here is for building a 48v 3.7 Kow hour battery that is rack mountable and also wall mountable. It is designed to be used with 16 of the L 60 cells that are available at Jack 35.com This is a DIY project. It will require you to build this battery following this video instruction guide.
Okay, so this is the kit. This is how you will get it. You will get it all put together like this and so you will have to take it apart, disassemble it, and then reassemble it right? Here are the parts that you are going to need. You don't it? Don't come in the kit.
You'll have to get these separately right? The BMS I will have We have a link to the BMS there. it's the one that includes the screen and the comp. Port Then you're also going to need a 125 amp uh DC circuit breaker and then you're going to need these four cables and these. uh, I put some links to Amazon cable that you can get and then you can cut in half and then put ring terminals.
Right now. as of right now, this is the only way to do it. You will have to crimp some uh Terminals and then some fals here, right? Uh, Maybe in the future we will have uh these made in China. We will include them in the kit, but as for right now, you'd have to make these then also.
Uh, the bus bar bar. Uh PCB kit right for the 16 cells and then of course you're going to have to get your 16 Led60 cells at Jack 35.com Okay, so let's start by taking this apart. all you'll need was just a regular screwdriver and then you start by taking the front handles, then the front face. Next we take the back cover off.
Okay, now that we've taken this box apart, grab your BMS unit, the main unit, your DC uh circuit breaker, and then the comp port and the LCD screen. We're going to populate the front face here right first. we're going to install the screen. So this uh unit here has these standoffs and you should be able to just push it right through there.
Next, we're going to put the comport. It's the same thing. you have standoffs here. Okay, next we're going to put the circuit breaker now on this unit here.
We don't have holes here, but in the production version of this plate, when you get yours, it will have two holes in here and the reason for those holes is so that you can install this here and then later at the cables and you can still tighten them. The reason is that to tighten the cables in there, it requires this screw and so if you put it in there, you install it, then you don't have a way to secure the cabl. So on this version right here. I'm going to have to do the cables first and Then install it in there and you will be able to install this first and then do the cables later.
So in order to do that, you will need the big cable. This is the longer cable that has the two will go on the top right here. So with the letters facing down, you just tighten that in there and then on the bottom. We will do this shorter one. Okay, this bracket off and then you slide them in here. Sometimes you'll have to hit these. It'll be tight in there. Uh, these holes I Think vary in size a little bit and I've gotten a few of these that are tight and then you put your little nut back in here.
So then without tightening that, then you put this in here. Then we tighten this and then this guy can still be adjusted. We don't want this thing sticking out a lot. I Mean you can if you want to for whatever reason, but you could also just back it up like this so it doesn't stick out as much on the front.
And then you tighten these screws Next, What you can do? Uh, well. it's install this cable where it's going to go and this cable is going to go right here into the positive terminal right now. Next, Since we are right here, let's install this cable. Let's install this unit right here.
And this compression plate has standoffs with screws. Okay, now that you have that there, let's install this cable. the one that has the 5/16 hole on it on one side and then the 1/4 in on the other one. The small one goes on the bottom and then it goes up like that.
Next to finish up the uh phas here is you will have to connect these ribbon cables. Now They come like this and what you have to do is do this. Put them in this sort of configuration. Now of course this is only this is not 100% needed.
This is only if you want to remain uh neat in your installation right? So what you do is you do that. and the last thing is to connect the switch. The black and the red ones are for the light. This little switch that we have included in here has a little light.
What is critical is to connect the blue wires into these red wires right? We peeled them back and these ones are already peeled on this version. I'm just going to cut these ones off so they're not in the way. Okay, so what you need to do: Solder These. Of course soldering would be the most proper way to do this, but nobody says that.
You have to do this 100% the way it needs to be, right? You could also just twist them like this. Electrical tape over here. Now if you do have shrink tube, you can shrink tube them right. here.
There we go. So it's time to load up the cells into this box here. Now this is fish paper. We recommend you use some of it.
How much of it? I We don't know. We don't know what the right answer here. You can line up this whole box to protect the cells and every single side of the cells. Or you could do like here.
where I just did on the two sides that are going to be pressing up against the thing. There's no right answer here. You could be as safe as you want. This is the reason why this is DIY So that you have the choice to do this or you could be as adventurous as I am and only put it on the two sides.
You could use the PCB board right here. Uh, to guide you how to install your cell. So according to this the bottom row. it starts with positive, negative, positive, negative so we can do that with the cell. So here is positive, negative, positive, negative. Follow that guide all the way up. All right. What I did here was loosen the bottom bolts in here to loosen up this plates just to allow for you to put these guys in here Right? Cuz they're they're supposed to be a little a little bit tight, but not too tight.
I'm going to have to loosen up that one over there. This is heavy. It helps to put it off uh of the edge of the table there and then you can have access to the screws from the bottom. Just got to make sure that that matches what's in here.
now. Put a couple of nuts in here, but don't completely install is yet. What? I recommend now is to retighten everything here. all right.
Next, it's time to put the BMS cables. Uh, balance cables in here, right? So here's how you get them. They're long like that. So what you do is you cut them to 7 in.
Now Only the balance cables. Do Not cut the Um temperature sensors right. Those are the black ones that are on every connector. There's four connectors only only the multicolor ones.
Cut them about 7 in Now before installing these cables in here. Uh, remove the Uh PCB board here and then look for number one. We install it here. Here's number two, Three, Number Four, One, and two will go here.
We'll put a piece of tape. Okay, so there we go. We just ran one and two of the temperature sensors one here to this one which the number 12 cell. So the temperature sensors are, you know, spread one here, one there, one here, and then one over here.
If any of these cells starts heating up a lot, then you know hopefully the temperature will catch it eventually because even the adjacent cells will start heating up right? Uh. Also, they are between the cells and the bus bars. so if the bus bar for some reason starts heating up and there's excessive heat in any of those, hopefully these uh things will catch it right. It will start transferring a rising temperature inside of this battery box and then the BMS will either Throttle Down or it will completely disconnect the battery and then will save you from catastrophe.
right? That's the job of these BMS right here. So after you do that, then we put the bus bar up on here. Now it's time to connect cables into this connector. So the little pins come.
They're up up there so you have to open them up before you can put a cable in there. You see how that lowered in there. You have to do that across all of them before you can put cables. Uh, it should be pretty simple.
It goes in sequence. The white one goes in the first one, the one next to it is the yellow one goes on the next one and then the uh red one goes in there. I would disconnect these cables so that when you're connecting them into the battery, they're not connected into the BMS just in case you make a mistake, less chances of frying the expensive BMS So there we go. Red one this brown and then this blue one next connector. The same thing. Start with the white one. one is the yellow one, Next one is the red one. All right and this next one is very important.
This last one on the connector number two goes together with the first one of connector number four. First cable is that white one. The last one is this brown one and this white one go together. Make sure this is all backed out all the way.
Don't overtighten those. Next one is the yellow one, the red one. Then the last connector. The white one is the first one.
Yellow one, red one. Okay. Next I'm going to connect this big cable. the negative on the negative Post Cover it up.
Then we connect the little cables here. We'll use some Zp ties here. Okay, so now it's time to install our face. This black cable goes on here.
On this one, you use the same regular screwdriver put it on here. Okay, remember these cables. Black one goes in here. this one right here, and then this one right here.
The last cable to do is this one right here. That's the screen. Okay, so now we put a few screws in the front of this. Next, we got to connect this big one here.
Little cap. All right. At this point, everything is connected. Now we just got to do the last cable.
which is this one. This one's the final one that will. Electrify The BMS I Suggest When you do this, stand back because if you made a mistake, you know the BMS could go off. This is the first time that you're energizing.
Uh Chinese made part A Lot of them blow up on the very first time when you first hook them up. It's possible that this happen even if you didn't make any uh mistake. So just be careful when you connect this you know this is this is the point of no return here. Okay okay so there we go.
We have life. Let's see connection failed. So that's okay and the reason why that might be is because maybe this button is not on. This is a weird BMS in that the screen if you press on the screen it will turn on even though the BMS uh it's not on the the way you can tell that the BMS is on is by the onoff switch over here right? And this will keep saying connection fail because it basically tries to uh connect to the BMS and it doesn't So then it just says connection fail.
So turn this switch on and look at that. There we go. Now we have this light and then these lights right here. So now we go to the pack info menu.
Uh pack info entered. so according to this is 5345 volts. Uh, let's go down current. there's nothing cuz there's nothing hooked up into it.
Capacity: Hey well I wonder what capacity will tell us? According to this is 80 amp hours. These are 74 amp hour cells I Think this is there's zero Cycles right? Uh, FCC 100 amp I Don't know what FCC means Factory calibrated I don't know I don't know what FCC means Uh, we'll have to look it into that. Um, go back to menu enter no menu yeah Pack pack info down, capacity, temperature, sell info. This is the one we want to see. So uh, cells 1 through 4 are 3339. they're pretty close. Go down sells 528 are pretty Balanc, then 9 to 12 also pretty Balanc and 13 to 16. also pretty balanced.
This battery is very, very well balanced. These are new cells that you're uh, using on here. Uh, so they shouldn't vary too much. If there's a large variance between one cell there, then there might be an indication that you have a cell that might be at a spec and then you got to keep an eye on that.
You could probably try to run a few. Cycles What the BMS is going to try to do is going to try to balance every time you cycle it right and so if it's too far out of balance, maybe the BMS is going to take a long time. Maybe what you need to do is like swap out that cell to another one If you've bought extra cells, right? Or if that's not the case, then um, you might have to buy just a single cell. Uh, or you can just contact us and we'll replace a bad cell all day.
every day. No problem. um uh. Also, you maybe the cell is just a different state of charge for whatever reason and so you could try to balance it yourself using a uh, uh, a variable power supply.
right? If that's if you have those tools, then you could do that and you can run through those steps. If you don't have any of those tools, you're just buying this to put it together and you have limited amount of tools and access to tools, then yeah, just contact us and we will swap out a a cell. You know, uh, we'll send you an extra cell so that you can replace it and then have a pack that is, uh, you know perfectly. Bal balance at least within the first 10.
Cycles The BMS should be able to balance this correctly. so at this point we are ready to put the cover. This is the front, the one that has rivet nuts. They're also all the screws.
those also go on the front and the reason why those are there are for the bracket that is going to allow you to install this on 19in standard rack. All right. Before you go ahead and screw everything I suggest you kind of line everything up and then I suggest you put put these Handles in. All right.
Last but not least, it's going to be the plate that goes on the other side and the and the top right. So this plate. this blank plate is also going to be available uh for the front here so that you can do your own right. So let's say you don't like really affordable terminals that I Got here here or you don't like this BMS and you want to use your own BMS and it looks different.
This: the screen is different, the buttons are different. you know this is different. So you could get your own blank plate here and then just drill your own holes and you know do whatever you need to do to make this box work for you. Also there will be uh, one of these plates that has a hole in here so that you could put it in the back, in the front over here or you know, the top of the box or the back of this box. and then you can connect a secondary box next to this one and then just connect the cells and then all of these cells will be together and you could run it through the same BMS because this BMS you can get it in a 200 amp version and uh, well, this same BMS Even at 100 amps, it could manage more than 16 cells. It could probably manage 36 or 32 cells. probably even more than that. But for for this application, we're going to be able to combine both of those boxes and it will require for a hole to be on one of these plates.
So we'll offer that one with the hole too. Let's install this in the back and then we're done with our project and there it is a finished 48v battery that you just built out of a kid. You just built that that looks like a professional box. but it's DIY you built it all right.
Now that you have finished your battery, your DIY battery. one of the questions that we keep getting is how do you charge the battery and so and any battery right? And so there are dedicated Chargers On this case, you would have to get a 48 volt charger that doesn't go above 58 volts and you could use that charger to charge this battery. And then you can discharge this battery by using an inverter, right? But by far the easiest way to do that is just to get one an inverter sort of like this that it's all in one. This is a hybrid inverter from Orient Power is the LV 60548 and this one has everything.
It has a uh, solar charge controller so you connect your solar in here and then you could charge your battery via this right? So it takes energy from your solar panels and then it'll use that energy to charge your battery. but then it also will take your battery energy and then it'll invert it into AC. All right and you connect your AC input in here and then the output is right here and then you can power stuff on the output and you can set this up as a backup or you can set it up. There's I think several Uh schemes where you can set it up, but this is like a one unit, right? It's got a charger, an inverter, and a solar charge controller right? And so three of those devices in one box and they work with the 48 volt batteries right? And so how you can set this up is you can set them up like this and stack them up in a rack right with the little ears.
the L brackets right here. So it's a standard Uh 19in uh height, right? So it's like four spaces and you could also Mount this on the wall too, right? There are Uh French cleats that we will offer with the wall version of this and then you could put them up in the wall, connect them together, connect them into your inverter, and then you charge them this way and you can discharge them that way. You can use them as a backup. You can use them uh for all kinds of other schemes, right? So there you go. That's a a cool little uh. And by the way, there's a bunch of different versions of this and uh, Brands and stuff. This is the one that I have and this is the one that I have a little bit of experience. so that's why I'm suggesting for you guys to do that.
By the way, this is, uh, very very affordable right now on. Amazon I Just saw it for 1,000 bucks so it's a 6 kilowatt. I mean this is this is a really good deal and it has good track record. A bunch of people have been using it now for years and there's a bunch of Manufacturers that make the exact same one.
This is just the one brand that I have, right? So there you go. Congratulations on building your own 48 volt battery. It looks pretty good all right. So I hope you found this project useful and helpful.
Uh, also, stay tuned cuz I am working on one that's twice this size. This is a 3.7 Kow hour I'm working on one that's going to be 7 and 1 12 kilow. So basically two of those put together and the advantages of the bigger one is that will be actually more affordable if you can believe that because it's only one box instead of two boxes. So one bigger box is cheaper than two smaller ones and it also will allow you to use a single BMS instead of having two Bms's uh per every set 7 and2 kilowatt, right? So if you're not afraid to get your hands dirty and buil batteries and you're looking for an affordable 48 volt battery system, then I have this ones and then the larger one coming up in this.
Channel All right, thank you for watching this video. We'll see you guys on the next one. Bye It never been easier to build a DIY battery system. We live in the greatest time in history.
Take a look at this fo I mean just look at him. Is that guy normal I Don't think he's all there. He is low. IQ An example of the lowest kind in our society.
And if he can do it and if he can do it, if he can do it. What does that say about you? So just get up and do it. Are you really going to wait until a complete collapse of the electrical grid to worry about this? Are you really going to wait? What does that say about you? Just wait until all the lights go off and your precious Tik Tok goes dark. you oblivious fool.
Don't be that guy. Well are you seiz the moment Build It Build It Build It Build the power wall.
Low quality made in USA 😂
Broooo Jehu. Do another Ebike build video how u were talking about putting a motor wheel n the back n overvolting the motor
Would really like to see a setup using 17x of those cells for 48V. Lots of inverters will handle higher voltages – my own Schneider XW Pro will do 64V DC just fine. Perhaps design to handle 16x or 17x cells so the user can choose whichever format fits the needs.
Someone needs to invest in some nut drivers.
You need an electric screwdriver
This is a case not a kit.
I would recommend using plastic isolator between the cells.The thin shrink wrap can rub off in mobile applications.I just bought 2 BMax batteries and built a 12V pack for my camper.Send me this kit and I can make a build and testing video on my next trip to FL
What are the odds of getting this setup in 24v, my entire setup is 24v (yeah yeah I know). 🙂
I'd like to get just the face plate. I have 5 DIY batteries and BMS on the way, but haven't got a good solution for the faces yet. I just don't need to box.
Thanks!
I think this is really cool! It doesn't make a ton of sense financially though. It is more expensive price per kwh (~$297 per kwh after shipping based on the links on the store page) vs buying a base model EG4 LifePower4 48v battery (~$270 per kwh after shipping). You get a 5 year warranty with the EG4 battery and you don't have to build it.
Hey👋🏼 I just purchased a good amount Lev60s today. Would love to see this set-up for a 24v application. Thanks for sharing!
I'm planning on building an electric outboard motor.
Can I put two of these in series to get to 96v on a 10kw motor?
$263/Kwh plus shipping.